Jump to content


  • Posts

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won


rmpfyf last won the day on May 16

rmpfyf had the most liked content!

Personal Information

  • Location
  • Country

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

rmpfyf's Achievements


Newbie (1/14)

  • Week One Done
  • One Month Later

Recent Badges



  1. Yeah... nah This reads like the usual crap the Smart Energy Council puts out. There's actually nothing unfair about it. When you consume energy you pay for retail margin + wholesale margin + transmission factor + market fees + environmental levy + distribution charges. That last bit is important - the money that goes into maintaining the poles and wires is paid when you use energy. When you export energy and a small (e.g. including residential) system you currently do not pay many money to maintain the poles and wires, and you get paid a fee which usually exceeds the wholesale market rate of energy at the time. These rules were drafted when solar was new and very expensive, not a common thing, and were encouraged to get people to buy solar at a time they'd rather not. This was a time of premium feed-in tariffs (66c/kWh) which had some enterprising and well-heeled types plonk 10kW on their home full knowing at some point they'd turn into mega revenue. We killed that tariff ultimately because it only made rich people richer, it'd didn't actually increase access. So it's fair to review other incentives. Nowadays solar PV is much more accessible. This incentive is in addition to the rebate you get for purchasing solar, which is paid out of general revenue (e.g. tax, which everyone pays). In short, if you can afford or can get solar, you currently get more than one free kick. If you cannot, you're still subsidising those who have solar, both at purchase and as they use it. On top of that small solar is an unregulated generator. If you owned a solar farm and the market rate for energy is below your price, or if there's a power quality problem on the grid that excess solar will make worse, you get turned off. That's normal. There's no such restrictions on residential PV. The best thing for residential PV is to self-consume it. Some proposals - to nix feed-in tariffs and put that money into subsidising self-consumption tech - comes from a genuinely good place. If you're going to export it to infrastructure you do not own (poles and wires), you should at least pay for their use - just like consumers do. There's nothing unfair about it, and for those without PV - a lot that's quite unfair about the current situation.
  2. @manchu your energy distributor will have a portal that lets you download your interval data (the per-half-hour electricity consumption of your home) as taken by your smart meter for at least the last year. Your distributor will be listed on your energy bill, or just post up a postcode (or PM it) and it might be enough to send you a link to where to get it. You might actually get away with a battery if you're long on gas. First thing to work out how you'll charge the thing which just involves getting someone to do an assessment of what's possible for your roof space, shading conditions and the like. Same goes for your switchboard. You won't get anyone onsite with the current restrictions though if you supply them an address and a photo of your switchboard they should be able to get your something indicative. Re-glazing well, depends on what you've got to play with. I got lucky in the current home, frames were late 60's aluminium but was able to replace the glass relatively inexpensively with something thicker... and laminated. Then insulated the roof and floor extensively. Made quite a difference. The grid doesn't have to go down for VPP operators to get paid, it needs only get pricey for them when wholesale energy prices go nuts (or the other way around). Some things VPP operators can get paid for doing incur a payment just for being ready. They'll make $300-600 a year out of you if you're single-phase, 'the deal you get' depends on how much of that they'll split with you. There's an amount of money to pay whoever supplies the software that makes your battery smart, there's a cut for them, there's what's left for you. I'd get the data and go from there.
  3. Never used one, maybe someone who has could chime in. I would be reluctant to consider it in an offgrid setup - would prefer a good local support network.
  4. I have no familiarity with Ingeteam though the other three are all well-regarded, Selectronic probably the best of them - they're local (Victorian), they're built like the proverbial brick house, on the solar side they integrate particularly well with Fronius. Probably SMA is the only real step up in that their control solutions for proper microgrid/offgrid is better - they have a full turnkey solution - but many Australian offgrid people have sites working happily with Selectronic. Theres a few solutions locally that will do control for them and other assets.
  5. Just picked up on this and careful here. For a purely off-grid system (no grid at all) it's possible to go your own way though I'd stick to standards. Not least for safety, and more for what you plug in will have power quality expectations that are consistent with mains norms. There are people running non-standards-grade inverters on pure offgrid that do make power, but I wouldn't. Especially for a whole house. This, and DC system faults aren't to be trifled with. There are no small mistakes.
  6. Let me know how you go. I deal with the CEO and main advisor though I've been involved with them for ~5 years now (since it was in development). If you don't get answers you like, drop me a line and I'll find you someone senior to talk to. I like both Reposit and CET. Reposit is further ahead in making money out of your battery - they are super represented in all government forums on VPP whether technical or regulatory. But if you have multiple devices you want to control intelligently against each other for best use of your tariff, CET is supreme. And the hot water system is effing awesome. I've trialled a few - from the locals to SolarEdge, Fronius and Dimplex (the latter being arguably the best of the retrofits IMHO) - from an all-around perspective I got the Solahart system the CET is intended for. It's just brilliant. Yes a heat pump is more efficient though unless doing it super properly (new builds apply) with an awesome heatpump, not a cheap Chromagen, I'd not touch it - just put the money in more PV.
  7. You can mount the gateway in it's own sub adjacent to your main and pickup your solar via Modbus TCP. This is an example of Reposit's pre-packaged board (seen here three phase). CET not much different. Breaker, PSU, Reposit's meters are DIN mounted. CET's are not so you just have the breaker and PSU (I think on the PSU, can check). For what it's worth my main board (where the gateway is) became my sub board when I upgraded to three phase (was easier in my situation) - they're metres apart and it all works just fine. If I was doing it again I'd do what we did at a friend's place - run my UPS in and out of the switchboard - this allows the gateway to keep running even if the mains is out, so I have a definitive measure of the mains being dead (or one phase thereof) no matter what's going on. It'd also let me put a large UPS in the garage and just reticulate the circuit where needs be on unique GPOs... easier.
  8. Right, so there's a ton of ways of doing this and whilst you can use a battery you should be using DR or thermal storage first. What's your water heating like? Gas? Electric? What's your space heating like? Once you get all the load you can flex into other, better-cost-opportunity means, what's left goes into a battery. This way you buy only the battery you need. You want your battery to power everything in your home after you've flexed load intelligently. You want your battery to power everything that's left, right? Sometimes that isn't practical. We've got a PHEV and I don't charge it from storage, it's either off of the panels or offpeak. Consider: A battery costs ~$8k installed and is good for 35MWh flux over life. So not counting generation costs, efficiencies etc it's still more than what I pay offpeak, so the car is charged off the roof and offpeak. Also putting energy into a battery on a wall to then put it into a battery in the car is a dud move on efficiency and general sustainability. My water storage tank however was considerably less so the 8kWh or so of energy I use on hot water daily is better going into a tank than gas or on-demand options. Most of my winter issues are HVAC, so a ton of insulation, re-glazing and whatnot was more effective than a battery. If I was smart, I'd have gone hydronic heating off a heat pump, or even an old storage heater for the main areas (less efficient but workable). Done right a battery gets your accessory loads at night. You want to move a many core load requirements off the battery or it will cost you to be that inefficient. It'll cost you in a large battery. Those costs add up. A VPP scheme helps you make money from your battery assets when the grid could use them - there are better deals out there than what Origin's offering.
  9. That's the baby. You can put this in a sub board - both CET and Reposit ship their kit this way. The current clamps are on long leads and will get to your main circuits no problem - there are six so you can monitor some loads independently. Connect it LAN (or supplied PLC) and run your Fronius inverters similarly on Modbus TCP over Ethernet - you don't need anything else. You're in luck.
  10. @Fred it really depends on needs and what you want to spend. You need to give yourself an uptime requirement, e.g. 'I want to meet my power requirements xx % of the time'. For what it's worth a 99% system means that nearly 4 days are offline. If you were doing it properly IMHO you'd have: Solar PV to whatever your demand is Good thermal storage because its cheaper Battery to suit (Optionally) smart UPS for critical loads (internet, security, etc - enough for the house to tell itself what's happening under all conditions) Diesel SGP for backup Optional automatic or manual changeover switching You would also need switchboard that still meets AS3000 and is compliant with requirements for multiple supply sources. That it is offgrid does not exempt a home from regulatory compliance. Done cheaply for a 5kW solar system, marginal batteries and inverter, limited thermal storage and an entry-level SGP this is a $20k job. I have a customer with a (well) over $100k install across ~15kW of LG panels, four LG Chem batteries, two SolarEdge inverters, a 12kVA Cummins/Stamford genset, multiple thermal storage, critical loads independently backed up, an industrial-grade switchboard hookup, good DR on his HVAC and semiautomatic changeover switching. It wasn't cheap. It's rock solid. You will not get out of a capable installation done right for under $35k without gas; you might be able to get something decent down to $25k with gas. You can go less, I wouldn't.
  11. No supply fee, though a dude came around and locked the meter out. I guess it's not bad; leaves the option in future.
  12. If you want to have a chat with the lead devs let me know, can arrange.
  13. No fees. you can cut the cord wherever you like. IF you wanted the services dug out of your property/removed, that's another story. Recently asked my gas provider to see about removing their supply from my house. Went something like the Seinfeld episode where Kramer wants to opt out of mail. I still have a gas line.
  14. You won't get the house off the grid for that. Nor is that inverter likely offgrid capable. You might be better placed with a Goodwe hybrid (will run 7kW+ on the strings) and a BYD LV B-Box - it's expandable and has some very enviable cycle life behaviour. Have a customer running one happily. Has an ATS and will grid form so will do islanding/backup. As for the VPP... Reposit will probably control that, though right now prefers SolaX and a few others at the lower end of the market.
  15. I'm a former Reposit customer and good mate of their CEO. It does what you ask and then some. If you want VPP capability and need to run a battery only, it's the best going. If you want to run a battery and other DR capable devices and don't need VPP, CET is a better bet.
  • Create New...